Pay to reject tracking, but by next week your payment history is dumped online because of some website vulnerability…

Pay to be tracked is more like it.

The three users have turned their PCs off for the night

Driving with such entitlement

That browser looks interesting, what’s the name?

I agree using something like Cloudflare or Quad9 is better then not using it at all, and making sure to turn on DNS over HTTPS is massive benefit. But as shown in my previous linked video even with this turned on a ISP can see/snoop DNS queries.

A VPN would help obscure website you visit through the VPN, but your ISP would still see the connection to the VPN’s IP address.

Though now comes the question of how much you trust that particular VPN.

My recommendation, look for smart locks that work locally with no need for online connectivity. Also choose something that does not replace the deadbolt but only replaces the latch on the inside of the house.

This means if you need to change deadbolts you can always replace it without getting a whole new smartlock, and if the smart lock fails you can always open the lock with a regular key.

As for local control, loom for something that works on ZigBee, matter, or zwave and something that you can potentially hardwire, batteries can sometimes last six months on some smart locks but it was a hassle for me, and rechargable batteries only last about 2-3 months.

As for me I choose the August Smart Lock Pro, 3rd Gen with Z-Wave, Silver (AUG-SL03-M03-S03).

I chose this as it had z-wave and is able to connect with homeassistant without the need for online connectivity. One item to note, this locks zwave function is reported to drop by many users, I personally have had no issues, but I run everything through HomeAssistant.

There is also integrated bluetooth which can resolve those issues with bluetooth relays noted on some places online.

As for hardwiring these locks, if they use batteries you can use something called "battery eliminators” which are basically power supplies connected to an equivalent number of dummy batteries, so in this case a 6V supply and 4 AA batteries, one of which connects to the supply. Just make sure to get your voltage correct, you can use a voltage regulator to do this.

DNS over HTTPS is for security and not privacy. Your ISP can still see what websites you visit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-tPCwxdxpY

Believe it or not, they vote themselves back in.

Back in my day!

Cable TV subscriptions never increased this quickly…

No worries, not sure how I misunderstood the question, but hopefully it helps someone else out who’s getting into self-hosting.

When you host something on LAN only you are not exposing the service to the wider internet directly.

This means someone would need access to your LAN or local area network first (such as your WiFi password) before being able to reach said service.

Now when you expose something directly to the internet, in a way that for example it displays a publicly accessible webpage, it makes it easier for anyone to reach that webpage, and potentially figure out your login and password information through brute force. Or some other type of exploit that allows full bypass of the login credentials.

Some self-hoster’s choose to keep their “more sensitive” services on the LAN only, and then use a VPN (that’s hosted privately) to access their LAN remotely from anywhere in the world.

With a VPN hosted on your LAN it provides a good layer of security as someone would first need to have access to your VPN to then potentially try and get access into your services.

So the head unit has to be running “full android” independently, with the app installed somehow either sideloaded or through the play store?

I guess a wireless or wired android auto connection would not propagate this to your head unit, if for example it was your phone that was infected.

As someone else said, you can more then likely use this as a Software-Defined Radio (SDR)

If you have a Home Assistant installation you can use a app like rtl_433 which would allow your smart home to receive local 433 MHz, 868 MHz, or 915 MHz signals from weather stations, temperature sensors, tire pressure monitors, and utility meters via an RTL-SDR USB dongle.

I have my rtl_433 picking up some neighborhood outdoor weather sensor in my area.

I think Linux has been shown running on PS5

Return it and get a bike

Most of this tech is way to intrusive, and a good chunk of drivers have become to reliant on it in some cases.

Hell, I know people that have no idea how to reverse a car if it does not have a rear view camera. Completely forgot how mirror functioned, and this goes for both older folks and the younger drivers.

All these types of collisions stories always use phrases like, “the vehicle hit” or “the truck/car/motorcycle collided with”.

The finger point always somehow starts with the vehicle its self, never the operator behind the wheel, or anything to do with the surrounding infrastructure. It’s always as if the driver themselves never existed.

Glad I could help!

Correct. Your manual added torrents only.

But to be clear your downloads folder should ideally have subdirectories in it, or at least that’s what I have.

*Completed Downloads", with subdirectories for movies, series, audio, books, blackhole_movies, blackhole_series, and any other category you have.

In your download client you then make sure to set it up that all downloads get a category that then dumps the completed download into the corresponding folder.

So when a movie gets added by radarr its assigned a category of movies in your download client, and when it finishes downloading it goes to the completed/movies folder. And similar if a series gets added by sonarr a category of series gets assigned and moved to the completed/series folder.

Any torrent you add manually you would then assign either blackhole movies or series and your download client would then move it to that completed folder. Radarr would then see new files appear and try and import them as it regularly will now scan that blackhole folder.