• 0 Posts
  • 26 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
Cake day: June 4th, 2025
  • D_C@sh.itjust.workstoComic Strips@lemmy.world•Off Menu [Mr. Lovenstein]
    4·
    24 hours ago

    I did this online the other week. After finally finding what I needed I tried to order and got that bullshit.

    After trying to buy about £4000 worth of stuff I then find I can’t checkout as a guest and need to download an app and sign up.
    I email to ask if I can just buy it as a guess and get a “Yeah, sure, just email with a list and we’ll invoice you” type reply.
    I’m about to do it when I realise I’m the one jumping through hoops here, and it’s all bullshit. If they can do the guest thing through email then should give you the option on the website.

    I order it from a competitor. It’s a bit more expensive, but only slightly. And no hoops or bullshit to contend with.

  • D_C@sh.itjust.workstoDull Men's Club@lemmy.world•Took apart my lawn mower
    26·
    6 days ago

    Usually when a lawn mower won’t start it’s the fuel that’s gummed up the carburettor.
    The reason for this is that the petrol that’s produced today has additives in it which can clump up.

    By taking it to pieces I’m guessing you shifted something.

    After I’ve finished mowing for the year I usually empty the tank and then run the mower dry. Then refill the next time I start mowing again.
    Alternatively you can just start the mower once a month during winter, and let it run until it’s warm to keep the fuel in the carbs and pipes ‘fresh’ and moving.

  • D_C@sh.itjust.workstoDull Men's Club@lemmy.world•And the women folk said I’d never be able to hang this curtain rod!
    11·
    19 days ago

    TL;DR… Basically if you have correctly measured where things need to be but it’s old/weak plaster/wall covering and there’s a big void between plaster and wall, then go out and buy a timber batten and attach that to the studs above the reveal. Then attach brackets to that.
    If the wall is strong, or newer plasterboard, then using the correct fixings is all you need.

    Long version:
    I used to fit curtain poles and, well, wow … where do I start?

    Ok, usually there’s about 100 to 150mm (4-6 inch) from the window side reveals to the brackets. And about 75 to 100mm from the window top reveal to the curtain pole.

    The eyelet of the curtain should be over the bracket, covering it. And using it to anchor when you close the curtains.
    There should be about 50mm (2 inch) of curtain pole showing beyond the bracket to the finial. This is to allow different curtains to be used, you’ll get away with how you’ve done it with those eyelet curtains, but if you ever change to something like tag tops etc you’ll probably need to re-do the brackets.

    Fitment:
    There are two basic ways. Attaching directly, like you’ve done. Or adding a wooden batten to the wall above the window reveal and screwing everything to that.
    The wooden batten route is the far, far stronger method because you can attach the batten to the timber studs/blockwork all along the above part of the window reveal.
    Going directly looks a bit ‘cleaner’ but is weaker. Now with that said if you use the correct fasteners and screws then that’s usually more than good enough. However the usual wall plugs are usually not the best thing to use. With newer plasterboard then using good quality 7mm plugs will be great.
    For older plasterboard, or lath and plaster type walls then even using great quality wall plugs may not last that long. So if you can’t drill in to the wall behind said plaster work to get a good hold with the screws then go with the batten method.

    There are other methods. Such as acrylic resin chemical fixing, which is basically fast drying ‘concrete’ in a tube that can be squeezed in to brickwork holes etc. But this is only for the most unusual jobs due to the expense and tools needed.